GOOOAAALLLLL!!!!!

At first, it was nice. Then it started to rain. Then hail. Then….GOOOOAAALLLL!! And thus began my first football game in Jordan. Probably the most exciting part of my trip so far. We had asked friend’s host-brother about football (or as you say, soccer) in Jordan, at which he decided he was going to take us to a game this past Saturday. The biggest two national teams were playing: Wahdad and Faisali. As I’ve noticed many times before, there are strong underlying tensions between these teams. Wahdad is made up of a large majority of Palestinian Jordanians, while Faisali is more Jordanian Jordanian. Thus, fans separate on the basis of nationality, making the whole experience much more strained. After passing a row of riot police to get into the stadium, cheers began erupting from the fans as our group of 8 Americans were escorted to our own section of the stadium next to the Faisali side. The game began, and our friend’s host-brother was able to get us into the fan section. They were so excited to see Americans at the game. Even more so, we had two girls with us. Fun fact, it is social taboo that girls do not attend football games. But…we’re American. The girl I was standing next to – a friend of mine in the program - got showered with gifts, was asked to take pictures, and for all intents and purposes was the half-time show. During half-time, the chant leader (a guy standing in front of the crowd staring the chants), came over and took pictures with her and kept welcoming her. It was great. During the game, my friend and I were given blue headbands to support Faisali and red kufiahs (Kufiahs are also separated by nationality: red for Jordan, black for Palestine). The guy that I was standing next to proceeded to link his arm with mine the entire game and told me when to “sit up” or “stand down.” He tried to teach me some of the chants, but that was a complete disaster because I had no idea what he was talking about. By the end of the game, it was pouring rain and we ducked out 4 minutes early in order to miss the rush of people leaving. It was such a great experience…definitely going to the next one!

Other events this week:

I went to Al-Baqa’, the largest Palestinian refugee camp in Jordan. It is located right outside the city, so a quick bus ride from the university. They quickly ushered us into the women’s school to give us a tour of the facilities and really didn’t allow us to see the actual camp. It looks like we’re going to have an opportunity to volunteer teaching English at the school, which would be a really awesome experience. I’m really interested to see what the Palestinian refugee experience is like in Jordan.

Last Thursday, we had a BBQ at our house and I proceeded to eat my entire weight in grilled lamb and chicken. SO good! It was partially in honor of our…2^nd cousin? (maybe. Not quite sure the relation….but it’s all family) for graduating from university. Awesome food, and I learned the Dubka, which is a traditional Jordanian dance. I took the fact that everyone was laughing at me as encouragement that I’m getting better.

Arabic is going....slowly. It’s so difficult at times because my host family speaks English, and it is extremely to get by speaking English because everyone here knows it to some degree. But my vocabulary is increasing. Especially after the football game – granted half the words I learned I can’t really use in the general public. I’m still really pessimistic about ever becoming actually fluent, but maybe by program’s end I’ll actually be able to understand a conversation between people.

Weather has been kind of crappy this week…rain and cold. Definitely not a fan. Although I have been praying for snow because that means no school. I think Jordanians don’t really know how to handle snow, so they just shut down the entire city when it does. But alas, none as of yet!

I’m planning to head out of the city this weekend, hopefully to one of the outlying cities that has something historic to see. But no official plans as of yet. Who needs plans, its Jordan!

A painting on the side of the Girl's school in Al-Baqa', the girls Palestinian school, which I thought was really cool. (it's in the shape of Jordan if you didn't know).

A picture of the city next to the refugee camp. Not quite sure what it's called, but I thought it looked cool.

BBQ at home. My host-brother is the guy at the grill.

The Royal Hotel, one of the nicest in Amman. I thought it was pretty cool.

A picture at the Football stadium. Instead of selling hotdogs and beer at sporting events, here they sell tea and falafel.

Riot police at the game. INTENSE!
My friend and I..adorned in red kufiah and blue Faisali headbands!